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[Music]

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[Music]

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an intricately marbled cut of meat this

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is Japan's world-famous Courbet beef it

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comes from cows raised for three years

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using strict guidelines Japan delights

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gourmets with steak yakitori sukiyaki

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tonkatsu and other meat dishes but for

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1,200 years Japan actually prohibited

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meat consumption as we'll see

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rice played a role in that ban this time

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on jabber knology plus we look at some

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cultural features of meat eating in

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Japan

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[Music]

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[Music]

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hello welcome to Japan on G  I'm Peter

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Barca in recent years there seems to be

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an increasing number of vegans around

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the world

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so today's program may have limited

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appeal we're going to be talking about

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meat we're a carnivore like myself

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Japan has plenty to offer in that area I

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mean core bear city which is world

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famous for its beef so much so that in

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2009 when President Barack Obama came to

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Japan Kobe beef was firmly on his wish

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list these days you'll find a wide

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variety of meat in any Japanese

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supermarket but regular consumption of

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meat has only been widespread in Japan

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for about 50 years and in the past

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several hundreds of years the eating of

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meat was actually prohibited in Japan on

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today's program we'll take a look at the

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reasons for that and what brought about

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the change in attitudes in recent years

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for many people the phrase Japanese food

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conjures up images of fish rather than

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meat but let's ask some people what they

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like to eat the Japanese diet has

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changed dramatically over the past 50

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years

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in 1960 the average person ate only 3.5

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kilograms of meat per year but by 2017

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that figure was thirty two point seven

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kilos nearly ten times as much by

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comparison

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seafood consumption stood at just twenty

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four point four kilos and that amount is

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in decline

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a Tokyo department store in sight is a

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specialist meat counter

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there are separate sections for chicken

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beef and pork prices are higher here

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than they would be at a supermarket

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chicken thigh is about 400 yen for 100

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grams pork loin is 670 yen for 100 grams

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and beef loin 2500 yen for 100 grams

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each cut is individually wrapped

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[Music]

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so what meat dishes are popular in Japan

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[Music]

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steak and fried chicken are common

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worldwide but Japan also offers some

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unique takes on dishes featuring me one

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example is sukiyaki beef fat is melted

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in a special pattern thin strips of beef

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are frying then you add sugar and soy

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sauce

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[Music]

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when the meat is browned on both sides

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it's dipped in beaten egg before being

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eaten next is shabu shabu thin strips of

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meat are cooked by swishing them around

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in a pan of boiling stock they are eaten

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with sesame or citrus sources after the

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mead you add vegetables like mushrooms

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greens and carrots

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this is yakitori bite-sized pieces of

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chicken cooked on skewers over a

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charcoal grill

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[Music]

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there are two main types of seasoning

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salt or padam tatah is a sweet thick soy

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based source countless other dishes

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including con katsu and nikujaga feature

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meat cooked or seasons in a

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japanese-style yakiniku restaurants

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where you grill meat at your table exist

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in huge numbers plans are especially

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popular with younger diners

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[Music]

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mutton and lamb are also eaten in Japan

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for example they are used in genius gun

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a dish cooked on a specially don't grill

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Thanks the dishes like these meat takes

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up an increasingly large portion of the

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Japanese diet this time on Japanese A 

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our guest is Knoblauch Harada a

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professor at Kukushkin University his

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work shines a light on Japanese culinary

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culture and the key developments in its

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history we're at a top-class

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steak restaurant in central Corbin the

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chef a 10-year veteran serves Kobe beef

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one of Japan's three most renowned

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varieties here's the main ingredient I

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think this is the first time I've ever

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eaten haven't eaten yet at a restaurant

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with a Michelin star so I'm sure we're

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in for something special with beef of

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this quality I'm sure it's going to set

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my bankaccount back quite a bit perhaps

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we should find out how much before we

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eat today's beef cost 16,000 yen for a

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hundred grams okay

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just to be prepared thank you when it

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comes to top-class beef prices like that

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and no surprise for most people eating

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this kind of food is a

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once-in-a-lifetime experience

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the two diners I the small piece of

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frying meat apprehensively how does it

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how often do you eat me say how many

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days of the week

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quite often I'd say at least four days a

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week

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something like that I'm probably

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something like that the actual amount of

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meat

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in one time it's probably not an awful

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lot

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it looks good it smell good and even

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sounds good you can enjoy it with every

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one of your senses after browning you

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let it cook very slowly what happens

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then

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well the juices are trapped inside that

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boosts the umami and the meat becomes

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wonderfully soft

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sharpness of the knife is amazing the

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way you slice it changes the taste yes

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you're supposed to cut it in such a way

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that the juices stay in if you're

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careless you damage the tissue of the

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meat and that will let the juices escape

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even high quality meats its heavily in

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the stomach if you eat too much and a

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normal-sized portion of beef like this

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would cost a fortune so the restaurant

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serves portions of 100 to 150 grams it's

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tender and absolutely full of flavor it

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really literally melts in the mouth when

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it's cooking and when you eat it the

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meat gives off a unique scent we call

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that the Wagyu aroma took a what to say

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that was just fantastic when you talk

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about Japanese food immediately the the

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things that come to mind uh sushi and

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sashimi and tempered on a lot of things

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that use fish but according to recent

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statistics it seems that Japanese people

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in general are now actually eating more

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meat than fish which is it was a little

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bit surprising to me when I first heard

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that today Japanese people eat lots of

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meat but up until relatively recently

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things were very different

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they still ate a great deal of fish it

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really was a very recent change today

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we're here in this restaurant having

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this amazing

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Kobe beef but for hundreds of years

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there was a prohibition against Japanese

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people eating meat so let's take a look

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at why and how that happened how did the

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Japanese relationship with me develop

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through history over 10,000 years ago

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Japanese people hunted and ate deer wild

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boar and other animals but when rice

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cultivation arrived fire the Korean

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Peninsula three thousand years ago the

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new club began to dominate the diet

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[Music]

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in the late sixth century Buddhism came

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to Japan the religion forbids killing

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and so as it spread meat consumption

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declined

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[Music]

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one particularly devout Buddhist was the

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10 new emperor in 675 he banned the

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consumption of animal meat an act that

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made an enormous impact on the national

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diet it marked the beginning of a 1200

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year period of prohibition the ban

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finally came to an end during the Meiji

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Restoration

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when lifestyle shifted to follow a more

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Western model in 1872 the Meiji Emperor

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revoked the prohibition of meat and

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began eating it himself he said I didn't

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do it for my health it was necessary as

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a way to build better relationships with

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foreigners national isolation had ended

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and meat-eating was now regarded as

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vital for international exchange

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[Music]

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as meat had been banned for so long at

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first the public at launch didn't take

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to him but people experimented using

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condiments like soy sauce and miso and

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they created dishes that suited the

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Japanese palate beef in particular

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became a symbol of westernization and

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among earlier doctors miso beef hot pots

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were popular soon enough meat-eating

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had spread across the whole country

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[Music]

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yakitori I mean just the aroma events

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enough to make your mouth water enough

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something as good as this

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it's amazing that for so long Japanese

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people weren't allowed to eat this now

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the burn on eating meat was what twelve

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hundred years in 675 the ten new emperor

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introduced what we call the ban on meat

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the animals the ban covered were cows

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horses chickens dogs and monkeys which

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are very similar to humans but the ban

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only applied to those five animals

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everything else including wild boar and

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venison was still allowed also the ban

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only applied from the time rice was

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planted to when it was harvested just

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that period in other words those animals

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couldn't be killed and eaten between

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April and September the leaders of the

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past thought that if people ate meat

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during those times they wouldn't make a

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good rice that's what the people in

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charge believed what was the logic for

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not being able to grow the rice properly

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of people reading meat

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for the Japanese rice is a sacred food

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rice or rice based products like sake

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and mochi rice cakes are used as

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offerings at shrines rice was a sacred

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offering to the deities but meat on the

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other hand was seen as unclean that at

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least is the view that took hold after

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the ten move Emperor issued his ban if

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you became ritually impure were there

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certain particular things that happened

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to you or did people think so people

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believed that meat-eating would cause

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blindness or contort your mouth they

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were common superstitions they even

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believed that the impurity could spread

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from person to person so if person a ate

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meat they were impure for 100 days after

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100 days had passed they would be back

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to normal but if they shared a meal with

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person B during that time B was impure

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for 30 days so a ate meat and B didn't

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but the fact that a and B ate together

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was enough to make the impurity spread

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for 30 days yes 30 and let's say there's

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a person C who's never even met a if C

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eats with B then C becomes impure for 7

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days but the impurity disappears beyond

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that okay so if you're d you're cool and

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other particular periods within that

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twelve hundred years when the

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prohibitions were particularly severe or

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perhaps were more lenient the

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limitations were at their most strict in

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the 17th to 19th centuries the Edo

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period at that time rice was used to

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measure the value of everything from the

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size of settlements to the economic

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power of Lords

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therefore the cultivation of rice spread

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for political reasons meat was seen as

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the unclean opposite of rice and that is

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why it was shunned in the Edo period and

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that lasted all the way through to the

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end of the Edo period like two hundred

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00:16:47,759 --> 00:16:50,399
and fifty years there was a degree of

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flexibility for example people with

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frail health could eat meat to get their

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strength back it was seen as a kind of

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medicine people also used that kind of

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logic so again this is an indication

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that despite it being strictly

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prohibited people did want to eat it

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they did like eating meat so they found

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a way to get around the problem to the

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prohibitions that's right in the past

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Japanese people ate a lot of wild boar

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and deer they were known as whales of

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the mountains and people ate them

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because they were seen as more like fish

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than Mitsuwa taisha shrine is

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00:17:34,200 --> 00:17:36,330
particularly famous for selling a

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talisman that called a venison permit if

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you had that you could eat deer so there

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00:17:44,730 --> 00:17:46,260
were loopholes like that

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Japan's famous for the whole idea of

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umami which Japanese take from things

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like seaweed in other countries I think

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they would get the same kind of thing

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from meat especially from the the fat

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would it be logical to assume the

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Japanese went to all these lengths of

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finding and women other things because

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they weren't eating meat a lot of

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countries use animal fat in their

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cooking as a source of but in Japan meat

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eating was ostensibly banned so people

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made sure to avoid meat when cooking

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formally that's why people used seaweed

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or fish for umami flavor we saw that

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development in the aro period when the

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restrictions on meat consumption were

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most severe we have the best of both

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worlds these days yes indeed in the

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modern era we have yakitori like this

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sukiyaki tonkatsu and so on we've

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developed an approach to food where meat

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and fish are equally enjoyable

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[Music]

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wanky is the name for native Japanese

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cattle where is Japan and kill refers to

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beef the exquisitely marbled beef that

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00:19:12,360 --> 00:19:14,789
these breeds produce has made a name for

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itself all over the world

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[Music]

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hi I'm Matt alt and this is plus one

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00:19:25,410 --> 00:19:28,200
today I'm deep in the mountains of me a

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Prefecture in a little town called

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Matsuzaka this is where they raised

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Matsuzaka cattle which are used to make

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Matsusaka beef one of the most famous

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00:19:37,350 --> 00:19:40,140
brands of Wagyu in all of Japan there's

347
00:19:40,140 --> 00:19:42,090
lots of tips and tricks and techniques

348
00:19:42,090 --> 00:19:44,280
to making this beef taste so good and

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that's what I'm gonna check out on

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today's episode as you can see I've had

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00:19:51,480 --> 00:19:53,310
to change into a special protective

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00:19:53,310 --> 00:19:55,620
outfit this isn't to protect me it's to

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protect the cows from any germs that we

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humans bring in as you can see it's not

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just me but the whole crew hello there

356
00:20:03,150 --> 00:20:05,040
thank you for having me today

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tell me all about not to suck on you

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let's get started

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Matt disinfects his shoes first of all

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00:20:14,940 --> 00:20:19,500
how many cattle do you have here 55 the

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three most prominent types of yq--

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Matsuzaka only and Colbert all use carbs

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from Tajima in her goal but they're

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raised in different climates using

365
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different techniques

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Matsusaka beef includes a special

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variety that is made using virgin female

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Tajima cattle fattened for over 900 days

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to produce a top-class meat hygiene

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00:20:48,370 --> 00:20:51,550
management is taken very seriously on

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average 50 to 100 animals are raised at

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each farm and in principle they don't

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graze outside instead farmers take

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personal care of each one of them

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do you feed them any special types of

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food we perfected our feed over many

377
00:21:10,580 --> 00:21:13,610
years it's a blend of oats wheat bran

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corn and soybeans this looks like a

379
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really nice premium breakfast cereal you

380
00:21:20,180 --> 00:21:23,960
can eat it it's tasty go ahead it's

381
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pretty good Wow it's like muesli this is

382
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really good as we slowly fatten the cows

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the aroma and sweetness of the grain is

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absorbed those qualities get right into

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the meat so what are we doing here

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messaging the cows is this also key to

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00:21:46,550 --> 00:21:49,400
why matsuzaka beef tastes so good that's

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00:21:49,400 --> 00:21:50,150
right

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massaging them improves this circulation

390
00:21:53,030 --> 00:21:57,830
it also reduces stress can I give it a

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try go right ahead

392
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this is fun

393
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hey we paid a visit to another nearby

394
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farm

395
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well first of all it's so clean and nice

396
00:22:19,800 --> 00:22:22,830
in here it's oh yes you want stress-free

397
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cows with a good appetite hygiene is a

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part of that creating an appropriate

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living environment for the cows is

400
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clearly an important key to success

401
00:22:38,940 --> 00:22:41,580
as I understand it Matsuzaka beef is

402
00:22:41,580 --> 00:22:44,040
famed for how marbled it is is there

403
00:22:44,040 --> 00:22:46,740
some special way to get that after we

404
00:22:46,740 --> 00:22:49,230
receive a calf the first year is

405
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make-or-break we have to fatten them up

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then we feed them a set amount for three

407
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years and that creates wonderfully

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marbled meat well I met the cows now

409
00:23:02,460 --> 00:23:04,110
it's time to eat the meat

410
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what does Matsuzaka beef taste like this

411
00:23:07,020 --> 00:23:08,700
is my first time trying it and this

412
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restaurant which is established in 1902

413
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is famed for its Matsuzaka beef

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follow me well this is it

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00:23:19,110 --> 00:23:21,510
the main course sukiyaki give us

416
00:23:21,510 --> 00:23:26,430
cornerguy CMOS the meat so what do you

417
00:23:26,430 --> 00:23:28,710
think makes Matsuzaka beef taste

418
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different from other types of these oh

419
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my god there we see this me sukiyaki

420
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needs about the decided though to mess

421
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it up I can see it's very marbled hey so

422
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there's a necklace with similar - isn't

423
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it okay well that's we say in Japan

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ether lucky mas look at this

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[Music]

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oh wow it's incredibly mild but get rich

427
00:24:02,170 --> 00:24:04,570
at the same time I wouldn't meet doc I

428
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meet though you love allah almighty said

429
00:24:06,460 --> 00:24:09,220
oh thank you so much for cooking for me

430
00:24:09,220 --> 00:24:11,230
today well there you have it the

431
00:24:11,230 --> 00:24:15,190
legendary Matsusaka beef of japan next

432
00:24:15,190 --> 00:24:17,200
time you come to Japan keep an eye out

433
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for wonderful brands of meat like this

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and restaurants where people will cook

435
00:24:22,570 --> 00:24:23,290
it for you

436
00:24:23,290 --> 00:24:25,870
it's a great place to have a party or

437
00:24:25,870 --> 00:24:29,170
like me just enjoy yourself that's what

438
00:24:29,170 --> 00:24:31,270
I'll be doing until you tune in again

439
00:24:31,270 --> 00:24:34,350
next time

440
00:24:37,170 --> 00:24:39,610
this whole thing with marbled beef

441
00:24:39,610 --> 00:24:41,890
really is a big deal why do you think

442
00:24:41,890 --> 00:24:44,710
that is it's actually not limited to

443
00:24:44,710 --> 00:24:48,130
just beef people in Japan also really

444
00:24:48,130 --> 00:24:51,700
enjoy fatty fish there's a strong

445
00:24:51,700 --> 00:24:53,710
conviction that flesh containing fat

446
00:24:53,710 --> 00:24:58,060
tastes better than other varieties and

447
00:24:58,060 --> 00:25:00,760
because we believe that marbled meat is

448
00:25:00,760 --> 00:25:03,310
delicious I would say that this is what

449
00:25:03,310 --> 00:25:05,920
we've always sought as we developed our

450
00:25:05,920 --> 00:25:10,930
knowledge and technology on the other

451
00:25:10,930 --> 00:25:13,180
hand when I was first here at in Japan

452
00:25:13,180 --> 00:25:15,010
you didn't used to hear about his

453
00:25:15,010 --> 00:25:17,140
marbled beef with something that one

454
00:25:17,140 --> 00:25:20,500
hurt started hearing about a little more

455
00:25:20,500 --> 00:25:22,690
recently I think again I'm sure there

456
00:25:22,690 --> 00:25:25,720
must be a reason for that beef imports

457
00:25:25,720 --> 00:25:29,440
were liberalized in 1991 and then a

458
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large volume of cheap beef arrived from

459
00:25:31,990 --> 00:25:35,620
countries like the United States when

460
00:25:35,620 --> 00:25:36,370
that happened

461
00:25:36,370 --> 00:25:38,950
Japan's livestock farmers were forced to

462
00:25:38,950 --> 00:25:42,610
differentiate their products they needed

463
00:25:42,610 --> 00:25:46,830
a way to make their products stand out

464
00:25:46,830 --> 00:25:50,230
the quality they decided to pursue was

465
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taste they aimed to develop a marbled

466
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beef that melts in the mouth a style of

467
00:25:58,840 --> 00:26:01,000
meat that wasn't found in other

468
00:26:01,000 --> 00:26:05,170
countries that was their goal or today

469
00:26:05,170 --> 00:26:08,430
definitely has been a bit of a treat but

470
00:26:08,430 --> 00:26:13,150
living in Japan and you eat I mean a lot

471
00:26:13,150 --> 00:26:14,950
of different kinds of meat and there are

472
00:26:14,950 --> 00:26:16,180
things that we all take for granted

473
00:26:16,180 --> 00:26:17,850
which are really quite simple

474
00:26:17,850 --> 00:26:20,770
for example there's strips of pork

475
00:26:20,770 --> 00:26:23,290
cooked with ginger and onions which is

476
00:26:23,290 --> 00:26:25,510
something that I first met when I first

477
00:26:25,510 --> 00:26:27,370
came to Japan 40 something years ago

478
00:26:27,370 --> 00:26:29,950
don't think twice about but there are

479
00:26:29,950 --> 00:26:31,270
these things that you really don't get

480
00:26:31,270 --> 00:26:34,570
outside of Japan and they have all these

481
00:26:34,570 --> 00:26:37,290
absolutely delicious ways of cooking

482
00:26:37,290 --> 00:26:41,830
regular not expensively and I think

483
00:26:41,830 --> 00:26:44,590
perhaps it's worth mentioning those

484
00:26:44,590 --> 00:26:46,400
things because they are part of

485
00:26:46,400 --> 00:26:48,890
the Japanese food culture and anybody

486
00:26:48,890 --> 00:26:51,440
can partake of them anytime for very

487
00:26:51,440 --> 00:26:54,590
very reasonable amounts of money it's

488
00:26:54,590 --> 00:26:57,110
true that marbled beef commands a high

489
00:26:57,110 --> 00:27:00,470
price tag but Japan certainly does make

490
00:27:00,470 --> 00:27:03,170
cheap and delicious dishes available to

491
00:27:03,170 --> 00:27:06,950
everyone as well meat based cuisine is

492
00:27:06,950 --> 00:27:09,380
booming that I'm thankful that such

493
00:27:09,380 --> 00:27:11,840
fantastic food is available on an

494
00:27:11,840 --> 00:27:18,590
everyday basis thank you very much thank

495
00:27:18,590 --> 00:27:22,430
you very much Japan has developed

496
00:27:22,430 --> 00:27:24,860
top-of-the-range meat like corbeil beef

497
00:27:24,860 --> 00:27:28,790
as well as cheap and casual dishes that

498
00:27:28,790 --> 00:27:34,040
anyone can enjoy this broad assortment

499
00:27:34,040 --> 00:27:37,190
adds to the rich variety of Japanese

500
00:27:37,190 --> 00:27:39,820
cuisine

501
00:27:41,650 --> 00:27:45,759
[Music]

502
00:27:45,900 --> 00:27:49,150
next time on Japanese Plus popular

503
00:27:49,150 --> 00:27:51,970
theater we explore a unique style of

504
00:27:51,970 --> 00:27:54,100
performance with a broad appeal that has

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00:27:54,100 --> 00:27:57,900
lasted for hundreds of years


